Choosing an Exotic Pet - Care of Exotic Pets

Guinea pigs don't talk, but that doesn't mean they don't communicate. Though we may not understand all the noises and actions guinea pigs make, there are some things they do that seem to have a fairly clear meaning and that help with understanding guinea pigs.
Vocalizations
Guinea pigs make a variety of noises, some of which most guinea pig owners will recognize. Contented guinea pigs just going about their day often make a variety of squeaks, chortles, and quiet grunts. As well, squeaks and chortles seem to accompany casual guinea pig interactions. Along with these frequent squeaks and chortles, there are a variety of other quite distinctive noises you might hear from your guinea pig:

• Wheeking: this is a distinctive (and common) vocalization, and it most often is used to communicate anticipation or excitement, particularly about being fed. It sounds like a long, loud squeal or whistle. Sometimes wheeking may simply serve as a call for attention. Many guinea pigs will make a very loud wheeking noise when their owners open the fridge or get out the food container, in anticipation of getting some tasty treats!

- This breed is also known as the English Cavy. The coat is smooth and short and lies flat to the body. This is the most popular and commonly seen breed.

The Satin American is also recognized by the American Cavy Breeders Association (ACBA). Satin refers to the sheen of the coat; the satin breeds have very shiny, sleek coats.

American Guinea Pig Photo Courtesy of Kathy

- The Abyssinian has a very distinctive appearance. The coat is made up of multiple swirls of hair referred to as rosettes. Their hair is quite dense and coarse, and it radiates in circles from multiple points on the body to make up a series of whirls and ridges. For show purposes, Abyssinian must have a minimum of 8 rosettes, in a symmetrical pattern. These guinea pigs always look somewhat dishevelled.
The Satin Abyssinian is also recognized by the ACBA; again the satin simply means the coat has a deep shine.
The above Abyssinian photo is courtesy of Odd Fellows Caviary.

There are actually two varieties of hairless guinea pigs. The Skinny pig, which does actually have a bit of hair, and the Baldwin guinea pig. While some people find their unique appearance unappealing, others find them quite irresistible.
There is some controversy about the introduction of these guinea pigs to the pet industry. They were originally bred for laboratory research, and concerns about their immune system function and overall hardiness have been raised, though this appears to depend more upon their line and breeding rather than the fact that they are hairless. Through careful breeding, it is thought to be possible to produce hairless guinea pigs that are hardier than their ancestors (e.g. see Skinny Pig Origins by SphynxnCavies Caviary). As far as I can tell, there are/have been some lab strains of hairless guinea pigs with reduced immune function, it seems that it shouldn't be assumed that hairless strains should be any less hardy than their hairy counterparts.

Their care is much like that of other guinea pigs. However, lacking a coat they are a bit more sensitive to temperature extremes and must be protected from drafts as well as direct sunlight. They also tend to eat more to maintain their metabolism and body heat (an excellent quality diet is a necessity, but should be provided to all guinea pigs, hairless or not).

Size
Guinea pigs, being social creatures, do best kept in groups of two or more, but most readily available commercial cages are not large enough to house a pair of pigs. The "old" guideline of 2 square feet per guinea pig is considered out-of-date and cramped by many owners. Cavycages.com recommends 7.5 square feet for a single guinea pig and 10.5 feet for a pair. Even at that, if you can provide a bigger cage, your guinea pigs will benefit from the extra space. In many cases, a home made cage provides ample space inexpensively and you can make quite creative cages easily. These are usually a better choice than a cramped commercial guinea pig cage (more on home made cage ideas below).

Cage Style
Cages with wire floors or wire ramps must be avoided, but otherwise guinea pigs are not too demanding in what sort of cage they need. Cages with ramps and low plastic shelves or ledges provide some added interest for the guinea pig, but be careful they do not take away needed floor space for running laps. The spacing between the bars can be up to one inch for adults. Some owners have come up with very creative solutions to the problem of providing large enough housing. The good thing about guinea pigs is that they are fairly large and not all that big on climbing or chewing, and are not likely to climb or jump over a wall that is reasonable height (18 inches should contain most pigs). Several examples of clever cage solutions can be found on on the sites listed on "Top Sites with Home Made Guinea Pig Cage Ideas." The photos illustrate how a little creativity can go a long way to providing great guinea pig enclosures, especially for groups of guinea pigs if you have enough room. The "Cubes and Coroplast" style of cage has become very popular. Stay away from most of the cages marketed for guinea pigs as they are terribly small. There are really only a few commercial cages that approach a good cage size for guinea pigs; see "Top Guinea Pig Cages" for a selection of larger cages you can purchase online.

Vitamin C
Vitamin C is of utmost importance to guinea pigs, as they are unable to manufacture their own (much like humans). Without enough vitamin C in their diets, guinea pigs can become very ill with scurvy. The amount of vitamin C required varies somewhat depending on the reference source used, but most guinea pigs probably need about 10-30 mg/day. Pregnant, nursing, young and ill guinea pigs need more.

• If you feed a good selection of vegetables high in vitamin C along with a good, fresh guinea pig pellet, you can probably meet the vitamin C needs of the average guinea pig.
• Many guinea pig pellets have vitamin C added but unfortunately vitamin C is quite unstable and will degrade over time. Keeping the pellets in a cool dark place helps preserve the vitamin C. You can also get pellets with a stabilized form of vitamin C.
• The best way to supplement with additional vitamin C is to use vitamin C tablets. You can buy vitamin C tablets specifically for guinea pigs (e.g. Oxbow's GTN-50C), or buy human chewable 100 mg tablets (note: make sure you are getting just vitamin C rather than a multivitamin formula). A quarter of a 100 mg tablet daily is a recommended dose for most adult guinea pigs. The guinea pig tablets are 50 mg, but since vitamin C is a water soluble vitamin, small excesses over that daily requirement are easily excreted. Many guinea pigs will take the tablets like a treat and eat them, or they can be crushed and sprinkled on vegetables or pellets.

Answer: The answer to both questions is yes: hedgehogs are pretty spiky, but they can be held, especially once they are tame. When a hedgehog is calm, the quills are in a relaxed position, and the hedgehog and be held without worrying about he sharp quills. The quills tend to lay down along the back and sides, all pointing towards the back, so as long as you don't push against the sharp tips of the quills they pose no problems (don't pet a hedgehog the wrong way!).
A scared or angry hedgehog is another story, since the quills are raised and tend to point in all directions; trying to handle a hedgehog in this defensive posture is sure to be a prickly experience.
How much a hedgehog enjoys being held or cuddled is a completely different question, and depends personality of the individual hedgehog. Some hedgehogs do seem to like to snuggle up to their human companions, while others might be more shy or simply prefer exploring and moving about than cuddling. My hedgehog was tolerant of being held but preferred snuffling around and exploring (or finding a quiet corner of the couch for a nap) over being held. It is hard to predict the personality of an individual, though it is safe to say that with patience, almost any hedgehog can be held.

When choosing a hedgehog, there are a few things you can look for to increase your chances of bringing home a healthy hedgehog. Unfortunately, the steps here can't rule out all health problems, and health problems could develop later, but avoiding hedgehogs with some common signs of poor health is still a wise idea. Here are some things you can check quickly in a hedgehog you are considering adopting.

Here's How:

1. Learn all you can about caring for hedgehogs before you go shopping. Not only will this prepare you to be a good owner, you will be able to evaluate whether the hedgehogs you are looking at have been cared for properly. Pay close attention to what they are fed and how they are housed.
2. It can be hard to really look at hedgehogs, as they are nocturnal and tend to roll up and act defensive around new people. But usually, even if they need to be woken up (which might make them snuffle and roll up a bit at first, but usually they settle down), hedgehogs will become active for a short time. Watch the hedgehogs move around. They should be bright and curious, and not overly lethargic and sleepy. They should have a smooth gait, free of limping or wobbles.

Pokey - African Pygmy Hedgehog Photo © Julie

The Basics of Hedgehogs

• The hedgehogs commonly kept as pets in North America appear to by a mix of species, originally native to Africa. The term "African Pygmy Hedgehog" is a descriptive term (coined by breeders), rather than a true species name.
• They are considered primarily insectivores (insects make up the largest part of their natural diet).
• Their backs are covered with rows of short prickly spines and their bellies are covered with soft fur. When threatened, they roll in to a tight ball with just a mass of spines poking out. When relaxed, the spines lay almost flat.
• Thanks to selective breeding, hedgehogs are now available in a huge array of color variations.
• They are quite compact, reaching a size of around 5-8 inches in length.
• Estimates of expected life span vary widely, anywhere from 3-8 years, although 4-6 years is probably most typical.
• Illegal in some areas.
• Fairly low maintenance pets, and while they don't mind handling once used to it they don't really seem to "crave" human interaction.

Choosing a Hedgehog

• It is best to locate a reputable breeder who breeds for good temperament and makes sure young hedgehogs are handled regularly.
• Getting a young hedgehog (6-8 weeks) is the best way to make sure your hedgehog will get used to being handled.
• If possible, try to pick up the hedgehog to gauge its reaction - try to choose one that will allow itself to be picked up and maybe even turned on its back without rolling into a tight ball and staying there.

There is some debate on ideal housing for pet hedgehogs, but for any hedgehog cage, the most important considerations are size, safety, ventilation, and ease of cleaning. There are pros and cons for different types of cages, and it is important to find a cage that meets the unique requirements of hedgehogs as well as fitting your budget and preferences.

Size
Hedgehogs in the wild usually cover a lot of ground in their search for food. Pet hedgehogs need lots of room to move about too. Two square feet (e.g. 1 foot by 2 feet) is sometime quoted as the minimum floor space for a hedgehog, but this should be considered an absolute bare minimum, and only used if you have a wheel and give your hedgehog ample time to roam around outside the cage for exercise. It would be much better to aim for a minimum of about four square feet (e.g. 2 feet by 2 feet).

Safety
A hedgehog cage needs to have a solid floor, so avoid any cages with wire or wire mesh flooring (hedgehogs may catch and injure their legs or feet on wire floors). Cages should not have any sharp edges or spaces in which a hedgehog could get his or her head stuck. The cage must also be secure to prevent escapes.

Ventilation
Good ventilation is necessary to keep humidity levels down and to prevent ammonia (from urine) and odor from building up in the cage. Wire cages offer the best ventilation.

Ease of Cleaning
This one is fairly self-explanaorty, but do not underestimate its importance. Your hedgehog's cage will need frequent cleaning, and a large, heavy or awkward cage will make this chore very unpleasant.

Wire Cages
Many owners use wire cages since they are quite readily available and these have the the advantage of good ventilation. In addition, they are usually pretty lightweight and easy to clean. However, few are made specifically for hedgehogs so you need to be very particular when choosing a cage. Avoid any cages with wire flooring (or if absolutely necessary, cover the wire with wood, plastic, or a Vellux blanket cut to fit securely). Additionally, cages large enough for hedgehogs might have wire spacing that is too large for safely housing hedgehogs (look for ferret or rabbit cages with spacing of 1 inch or less). There are a couple of manufacturers producing wire cages particularly for hedgehogs: Martin's Cages (choose from the larger ones - the Hedgehog Home is very small) and Hedgehogs by Vicki. Some people recommend multilevel ferret cages, but the height of these cages and the platforms make me nervous about falls (from the platforms or from climbing the sides of the cages).

Aquariums
Aquariums are okay, but you need a large aquarium (i.e. 30 gallon is a good minimum) and a wire mesh top. The major disadvantages are the lack of ventilation, and aquariums are heavy and awkward to clean.

Plastic Containers
Many owners have gotten quite creative with creating cages out of plastic storage bins. With some slight modifications, you can make a large cage for little money out of clear plastic storage containers (solid color containers would be quite dark for a hedgehog). The biggest downside is again ventilation. Holes can be made in the sides and lid with a soldering iron or drill, but it is difficult to provide enough holes to provide great ventilation. If you get a deep enough container and don't have anything (including water bottles) around the walls that the hedgehog can use for climbing, you may be able to get away with having no lid. Alternatively, you can fashion a lid out of hardware wire mesh or screen material, either on its own, or attached to a large opening cut in the lid of the storage container. The Michigan Hedgehog Owners Group site has an ingenious idea for a two-container home with instructions. Hedgehog Valley suggests cutting panels in the sides of the container and fixing wire mesh or plastic canvas over the openings to aid ventilation in this type of home. With creativity, these homes can work quite well.

Other Options
I have seen other ideas for cages, such as wading pools (solid plastic with high sides) and home-made wooden cages. As long as a cage is large enough, escape proof and safe, ventilated and easy to clean, then your imagination is the limit.

Names and Terms

• Latin name: Cavia porcellus
• Also called cavies (singular is cavy).
• Females are called sows, males called boars, and babies called pups.
• Hairless varieties also available, sometimes called "skinny" pigs. 

 Appearance

• Approximately 10 inches long, and 2-3 pounds.
• Rounded stout body, no visible tail (a few tail vertebrae can be felt under the skin).
• Variety of breeds with different coat types and color patterns. The most commonly found breeds are the American (short smooth hair coat), Abyssinian (short coat with "swirls" called rosettes) and the Peruvian (long haired). A wide variety of colors are seen.

Before You Decide on Guinea Pigs

• Guinea pigs are social animals, and you should consider keeping a same sex pair so they have company. A pair of females is a good choice; a pair of males may be fine but may fight.

Cedar and pine shavings are commonly available pet bedding products. However, there has been much discussion ovger the safety of these beddings among exotic pet owners and advocate. Are these beddings really dangerous for the animals for which they are intended?
Cedar and pine became popular for pet bedding material because they are good at controlling odor and have some natural insecticidal properties (they kill or repel bugs, especially cedar). These softwood shavings smell nice due to the volatile compounds (e.g. aromatic hydrocarbons, phenols) that are given off. Unfortunately these compounds have been implicated as a potential health risk, especially with regards to respiratory problems (asthma, inflammation, allergic responses) and changes in the liver.
Many of the studies on wood toxicity have actually been conducted on humans, who are exposed to these woods and their by products in the wood product industry (such as those who work in lumber mills who are exposed to lots of wood dust), and these studies often compare the incidence of disease in workers in the wood product industry compared to other workers or the average population. Obviously, this is a much different type of exposure compared to our pets.
Studies of laboratory animals have shown fairly dramatic changes in liver enzymes on animals housed on cedar bedding. This in turn can effect the metabolism of drugs including anesthetics, but there is not much information on a direct link between these changes and disease or clinical symptoms. The changes in liver enzymes can be problematic for research animals, but the impact on pets hasn't really be studied, as far as I can tell.

Pot bellied pigs have individual personalities, but many piglets do not like to be touched much, or held. Usually, they grow to enjoy being near the people they bond with, and like to be touching them or sitting in their laps. However, piglets can be quite aloof or fearful at first, especially if they have not been well socialized by their breeder. Even well socialized pigs may take a while to learn to transfer trust to a new owner. When you bring a young pig home, you first need to gain the piglets trust in order to have it accept handling readily, then work on training basic behaviors (such as leash walking, house training) and being able to restrain the pig so necessary grooming and medical care can be done as needed. Although most pigs quickly outgrow being picked up, it is worthwhile to get them used to being picked up as they will be more willing to be handled and restrained if you are able to gain their trust enough to be able to pick them up.
A note about any sort of training with a pig: positive reinforcement is the key to success. They won't respond to force or punishment very well at all. To a pig, the most obvious kind of positive reinforcement is food, remembering that most pigs will be happy to work for small tidbits such as raisins, small pieces of apple or other fruit, or even pieces of their regular ration. When you are trying to tame a stubborn piglet, you may even want to hand feed all their food, since the quickest way to a pig's heart is through his stomach. However, obesity is a common problem, so keep treat foods to a minimum and make sure you are not overfeeding your pig by feeding full meals and supplementing with extra food for training.
Bonding With a New Piglet
When you bring your new pig home, he (or she) will probably be very nervous and scared, since he has left everything familiar behind and has to adjust to all new people and surroundings. Be patient at first. You will want to keep him or her in a small confined area until he is more comfortable. Let the pig explore a bit and get comfortable with his new surroundings, and once he doesn't seem apprehensive, try to get him to approach you by tempting him with food. Sit on the floor with the pig, and offer a bit of food (for piglets, it is probably best to just use their regular food for most of the training - small bits of vegetable or fruit could be used for special treats). You may just need to put the food on the floor in front of you at first, and gradually work up to the piglet taking the food from you. Do this repeatedly over the course of the first few days at home and have everyone in the family have a turn so that the piglet can bond with all the family members.
Once your piglet is comfortable with being near you and taking food from your hand, you can reach out and try to scratch your piglet gently under the chin or along the sides. Move slowly, and speak calmly and gently to your pig. Remember to give treats as you do this, and the piglet will eventually realize this is a pleasant experience. Move at a pace that your piglet is comfortable with, though. If he resists being scratched or petted, back off a bit until he is more accepting.
There is a fairly fine line between spending enough time with your piglet and spending too much time, though. While you want to take the time to get to know your pig and have him or her trust you, you also want to make sure you do not lavish too much attention on your baby, or he will come to expect attention all the time. This is also true of using food as a training tool - spend time with your pig without giving treats as well, or he will think of you as a food dispenser and may start to expect or demand food contstantly. Keep the bonding and training sessions short and regular, with breaks to give the pig time to rest and develop the ability to entertain himself a bit too.

Picking up a Piglet
Generally, pigs do not like to be held or picked up. When a pig feels threatened, it will squeal, loudly. Usually very loudly. Obviously, when you are trying to pick up a baby pig you want to cuddle you are not a threat, but you have to remember that squealing is a natural response to something the piglet doesn't like. As the piglet bonds with you, it will trust that you are not going to hurt him or her, and you will likely be able to teach him or her not to struggle and squeal when handled. While pigs usually outgrow being picked up quite quickly, being able to pick up your piglet will make it easier to move your piglet around, which is especially handy during the house training process.
Once your pig is used to being handled and scratched, try to entice him or her to sit in your lap. If your piglet has a favorite blanket, put it in your lap to encourage the piglet to lay in your lap. Once your pig will climb into your lap, gradually work from petting his body to gently wrapping your arms around him. Then start to apply gentle pressure with your arms. You'll want to cradle your piglet gently, but firmly, under his neck/chest just ahead of his front legs and under his rump, wrapping your arms around the side of his body that is away from yours. Hold him against your body, so he feels secure. Continue to pet him and talk gently to him, and give him treats (having a helper to feed treats while you try to cradle him works well). Once he is okay with being cradled, try and lift him a bit. If he squeals or screams for more than a few seconds, back off and work on just holding him more and work back toward picking him up. This is where things get a bit tricky and it helps to really know your pig. You do not want to let him keep screaming as it is a signal that he is very stressed. On the other hand, you do not want to put him down the second he starts to squeal, since you then reward him for squealing when picked up and therefore inadvertently teach him that if he squeals he gets put down. As you get to know your pig, you can judge better when your pig is just protesting a bit compared to when he or she is truly stressed. Teaching a piglet to be picked up can be difficult, since it requires teaching something they do not like to do. Be patient and make it a gradual process, and you and your piglet will be happier as a result.

Pot bellied pigs generally have voracious appetites and will eat nearly anything that you offer them. Unfortunately they are also very prone to obesity which can lead to foot and joint problems as well as other health problems. In addition to the health implications they can also become very persistent and pesky beggars and can even learn to open the refrigerator in their search for tasty treats. Feeding the proper diet, limiting treats and developing a feeding routine can help prevent problems.
Pot bellied pigs need a good quality diet that is high in fiber and low in calories. Ideally, a food formulated specifically for pot bellied pigs or mini pigs should be fed, and these can now be found at some feed stores and pet stores. If your local store doesn't carry these diets they may be able to order them in for you, or you could also check to see if your veterinarian can order them. Here are some examples of pot bellied pig diets:

• Mazuri (whose parent company is Purina) - choose Mini Pig from the menu at the right of the screen
• Ross Mill Farms - you can buy online from their online Pig Store
• Heartland Pet Pig Products - carries a full line of pet pig diets available online through HappyPigs.com

If you feed a commercial food meant for farmed pigs make sure you choose a maintenance ration - especially avoid the grower and finisher type foods which are meant for optimum growth and are too rich for pot bellied pigs. The
Young piglets can be fed a commercial pig starter diet, but only up to about 2-3 months of age.
As a rule, in non-breeding adults feed about 1/2 cup of maintenance food per 25 pounds of the pig's weight (so a 75 pound pig would get 1 1/2 cups of food). The total amount should be divided into 2 meals a day. However, this amount is a guideline and should be adjusted based on the pig's body condition. If the pig is developing rolls of fat around the face and you have a hard time feeling the hip bones, the pig is becoming obese and should be fed less. Conversely, if the pig feels skinny you should feed more. Piglets up to 6 weeks of age can be fed starter ration free choice (as much as they want) but from 6 weeks to 3 months gradually limit the starter food down to about 1 to 1 1/2 cups per day. Nearing 3 months, make the gradual change to the adult diet.
In addition to the formulated diet, you can feed a good variety of fresh vegetables to make up about 25% of the pig's diet. Foods such as celery, cucumbers, peppers, carrots, potatoes and some greens are good choices (but try to limit the starchy vegetables like potatoes). Some fruits can be feed as well but only in moderation due to the high sugar content. Most pigs love treats like apples, grapes and raisins, but these are good to reserve as treats to be used in training.
Pigs should also be allowed opportunity to root in soil and graze on grass (not treated with chemicals or fertilizer). Pigs are susceptible to selenium deficiency but in most areas if they are allowed to graze and root in the soil they will get enough. If you live in an area with soil deficient in selenium you may need a mineral supplement. Check with your veterinarian for advice on this.
Extra fiber can be provided by feeding hay (e.g. alfalfa), and some experts recommend adding bran to the diet. In summary:

• feed a diet specifically made for pot bellied pigs if possible
• do not overfeed - never feed as much as they will eat since pigs have voracious appetites
• do not feed dog or cat food (much too high in protein)
• avoid fatty foods, particularly animal fats
• absolutely avoid chocolate or salty snacks
• ensure plenty of fresh water is always available
• do not give into begging or your pig is likely to become a pest and beg constantly
• do not feed directly from the fridge or your pig may quickly become an expert at opening the fridge

Introduction

• Live 6-8 years on average (sometimes up to 11 or 12)
• Females are called jills, and males are hobs. Baby ferrets are called kits. In North America, spayed females are sometimes called sprites and neutered males called gibs. A group of ferrets is a "business of ferrets."
• Males tend to be larger than females in length and weight. Females are 13-14 inches long and weigh anywhere from 0.75 to 2.5 lbs, whereas males are on average 15-16 inches long and weigh 2-3.5 lbs if neutered and are even larger (4 or more lbs) if not neutered.
• Most ferrets obtained in North America are spayed or neutered and descented at a very young age before being sold.
• Ferrets sleep a large part of the day, commonly around 18 hours. They naturally tend to be active at dawn and dusk, but usually adapt their sleeping and active times to the fit the schedules of their owners.
• Ferrets are very playful, and are very entertaining to watch.
• Ferrets have relatively poor eyesight but a keen sense of smell and hearing.

Are Ferrets Domestic Animals?
There are often misconceptions and debate about whether ferrets are domesticated animals, and the short answer is yes, they are domesticated. They have been domesticated for probably 2000 years or more, and were brought to America as pets as long as 300 years ago. Nevertheless, in many places they are still not recognized as a domestic animal for the purposes of laws pertaining to animals kept in captivity. The domestic ferret is sometimes also confused with its wild cousin, the black footed ferret.
What about the Odor?
Ferrets have an undeserved reputation of being smelly. It is true that they have a distinctly musky odor about them, but it is neither offensive nor overpowering. This musky odor comes from their skin glands and is present whether the ferret is descented or not. While occasional baths are recommended, frequent bathing will not reduce the scent, and will likely make it worse as the skin will get too dry and the skin glands will produce more oils in an effort to combat the dryness.
As mentioned above ferrets are usually descented in North America, which involved removal of the scent glands. They do have scent glands similar to skunk scent glands, and they will release (not spray) the contents if threatened. However, ferret scent gland secretions are milder than that of skunks and the smell dissipates quickly and washes away easily. The routine removal of scent glands, which is most commonly done in North America, is now being questioned since the musky odor of ferrets is not due to the scent glands and discharge of their scent glands is not a big problem.
Did you Know?

• The name ferret is derived from the latin furonem, which means "thief." Ferret owners can attest that this is a well deserved name, as they will happily steal anything they can get their paws on and hide it in their house.
• Ferrets come from the same family ("Mustelidae") as badgers, wolverines, otters, mink, weasels, black footed ferrets and polecats.
• The distant ancestry of the domestic ferret is somewhat of a mystery, although they are very closely related to the European polecat.
• The scientific name for ferrets is a somewhat controversial area - Mustela putorius furo is traditionally used, although recent scientific evidence has suggested they should have a name of their own, Mustela furo.
• Ferret owners have a variety of fun nicknames for ferrets: ferts, fuzzies, carpet sharks, furballs, and more! 

While ferrets are not for everyone, they can make great pets for the right owner. They are affectionate and bond to their owners, and there are few pets as playful as ferrets (yet they are quiet for a large portion of the day). They seem to have garnered a negative image in some places, which is largely undeserved. Here's my list of reasons ferrets make good pets!
1. Ferrets are cute!
With mischevious eyes and sweet faces, ferrets are undeniably adorable. See the Ferret Photo Gallery for proof!
2. Ferrets are very playful and curious.
They will entertain you endlessly with their antics. They will happily play with toys, and watching ferrets play for the sheer joy of it is guaranteed to lift your mood. Remember, it is known that owning pets has real health benefits and the joy and affection they bring is the main reason.
3. Ferrets are sociable, friendly and affectionate.
It if often recommended (although not essential) to have more than one. Having two or more ferrets increases the fun factor for the owner and the ferrets as they will interact and play together, sometimes with wild abandon. And despite having other ferrets to socialize with, they will still crave attention from their owners.
4. Ferrets are intelligent.
Some owners are amazed at how adept ferrets become at solving problems - and training their owners. Ferrets are very determined and will work at figuring something out with surprising persistence.
5. Ferrets are quiet.
While they can and do vocalize, for the most part they are very quiet. For example, probably the only time a ferret will make a noise loud enough for someone in the next apartment to notice is if the ferret is hurt or very frightened. They also sleep away a large portion of the day.
6. Ferrets are small.
Therefore, ferrets don't need a huge cage. Of course, the bigger the better, and ideal ferret cages are tall with muliple levels, so they still don't take up too much room. They do need time out of the cage daily for playtime and exercise, no matter what size cage you give them.
7. Ferrets are easy to feed.
This is especially true now that a variety of good quality ferret foods have become more widely available.
8. Ferrets can be litter trained.
Perhaps not to the same extent as cats, in that there are bound to be a few accidents. However, most can be fairly reliably trained to use a litter box in and out of their cages - a big plus when you have them out for exercise for a couple of hours a day!
9. Ferrets are easy to exercise.
They can get all the exercise they need tearing around your (ferret-proofed) home! Of course, if you want you could take them for walks. With a ferret sized harness and a little training, you can take them out for a stroll. There are few things that will start a conversation with strangers faster than walking your ferret in the park!
10. Ferret have distinct personalities.
Every ferret is unique and has it's own personality. Some are independent, and some are very cuddly, but each is an individual and treat to get to know!

he group of small mammals comprised of hamsters, gerbils, guinea pigs, mice and rats are commonly found at pets stores, and favorites as family pets. While they are all rodents (with the possible exception of the guinea pig, whose classification as a rodent is disputed in the scientific community), they have varied requirements for space and social interaction, and have differing qualities as pets. The following comparison can help you decide which of these rodents might be the right pet for you.

Hamsters
Syrian or golden hamsters live on average about 2-3 years. Adults are about 6 inches in length. They are solitary animals that should be kept one to a cage. A basic minimum cage size is 12 x 18 inches (and 12 inches tall), but since hamsters are quite active, the bigger the better (and those cute modular plastic hamster cages are often too small for hamsters). Syrian hamsters that are handled from a young age usually have an agreeable temperament, but if not handled much they can be defensive and can deliver a painful bite (they are also nocturnal and can be difficult to wake or act grumpy if woken during the day). Overall hamsters are widely available and make good pets, with the advantage that they can be kept single. Also, several species of dwarf hamster are becoming more widely available. These are smaller than Syrian hamsters and are often more social, at least with others of their species. Some have a reputation as biters, although that depends a bit on the species and how much they are handled.
Care of Hamsters
Gerbils
Gerbils live an average of 2-3 years (although up to 5 years has been reported). They have a body length of about 4 inches, with a furry tail that is almost as long as the body (never pick a gerbil up by that tail, though!). Gerbils are very active and social so are happier as a pair or group (get all males or all females to prevent prolific breeding). Introducing adults is difficult, though, so it is best to acquire a pair (or more) that are littermates or quite young. A recommended minimum cage size for a pair or small group of gerbils is 12 by 24 inches, with a height of 12 inches, although more space would be better. With regular handling, gerbils can become quite tame, and are interesting to watch as they play and interact with their cage-mates.
Care of Gerbils
Mice
Fancy mice live 1-3 years on average, and are quite easy to keep. They are the smallest of this group with bodies that are only about 3 inches long, with a long hairless tail. They are also social and females do well in pairs or small groups (males tend to fight if kept with other males). They need a relatively small cage, minimum 12 by 18 inches (and 12 inches tall), although a larger cage is recommended if you have more than a pair. Mice can become quite tame if handled regularly but are small, fast and can be skittish so are not the best candidates for human interaction. However, they are low maintenance and quite active and playful, so they are entertaining to watch.
Care of Mice
Rats
Rats live an average of 2-4 years, and make nice pets. They are very social, and it is best to keep a same sex pair (male or female). Since they are larger, with a body length of about 8 inches (and a hairless tail about the same), they are a easy to handle. With regular handling they become very tame and enjoy human companionship, and they rarely bite. They need time outside of the cage for social interaction and exercise, and can even be taught simple tricks (they have even been compared to dogs in their ability to bond and interact with people). They do need a large cage: a tall cage with at least 24 inches by 36 inches of floor space is recommended. Due to their social nature they need more time and attention than many of the other small rodents, but make rewarding pets.

Guinea Pigs
Guinea pigs are fairly long lived, with an average lifespan of 5-7 years (up to 10 reported). At an adult size of about 10 inches long and 2-3 pounds, they are also the largest of the commonly found pet rodents. Their size and gentle temperament have made guinea pigs popular pets, especially for families. They rarely bite, even when stressed. They are social so do best kept in pairs (same sex), and they need a larger cage than is typically found in the guinea pig section at the pet store. A suggested minimum is 4 square feet of floor space for a pair - and this is only if daily exercise outside of the cage is available. Larger cages can be easily created with household materials to create a wonderful habitat since guinea pigs are not escape artists like the other rodents mentioned here. They have slightly more demanding diets, needing a fresh supply of hay and veggies as well as adequate amounts of vitamin C. While they need more space and attention than some other rodent pets, they make rewarding pets and enjoy a longer expected life span.

Due to the popular association of rabbits and Easter, and the proliferation of bunnies at pet stores around Easter, it can be tempting to bring home a live rabbit for Easter. But unless you have done your research and are certain a pet rabbit will be a good fit for your household, this can be a bad idea.

Many Easter Bunnies End up at Shelters After Easter

Owners who didn't know what to expect from a pet bunny often end up surrendering them to shelters after Easter once the novelty wears off and the amount of work required to properly care for pet rabbits becomes apparent. Rabbits can be wonderful companions -- for owners who know what they are getting into. Rabbits are fun and entertaining and often form very close bonds with their owners. Here are some thing to consider before deciding if a rabbit is right for you:

• Being social, rabbits need a great deal of interaction with their owners and/or other rabbits to be happy. Daily playtime and exercise outside of their case are necessary.
• They are not low maintenance - it takes a good deal of work to properly care for a rabbit.
• Rabbit pellets alone are not a sufficient diet -- they need lots of roughage in the form of good quality hay and a variety of fresh vegetables.
• They do need to chew, so lots of safe chew toys should be provided, and any spaces where the rabbit is allowed to run must be carefully rabbit-proofed.
• They need a relatively large cage. They are also better off indoors, where they can be more social with their family and also are also safe from predators (even in the city) and extreme weather.
• While they are generally quiet pets, rabbits are not a good match for active young children who may not be careful enough when picking them up or playing around them.
• Rabbits like to be near their people, but they often would rather not be held (which can be disappointing, especially for kids)
• They require some veterinary care, which can be expensive. They should be spayed or neutered (by a vet experienced with surgery on rabbits) and they may require vaccinations depending on where you live (e.g. in the U.K.; see Rabbit Vaccinations from RabbitRehome.org.uk for more on vaccines).
• Rabbit urine can have a strong odor so expect to change their litter box frequently (rabbits usually take quite well to litter box training though, spaying and neutering should help reduce the odor).

If You Are Sure a Rabbit is Right for You

Of course, some potential owners will have done their research and are ready to make the commitment to a pet rabbit. If this is true for you, please consider adopting from a shelter or rescue. There are many pet rabbits out there who need a second chance at finding a forever home, Easter or not. Many animal shelters regularly receive rabbits so you can often find them at your local shelter or humane society. Alternatively, check for a local chapter of the House Rabbit Society

Make Mine Chocolate

If you are not absolutely certain a rabbit is the right pet for you, it's best follow the advice of the "Make Mine Chocolate!" campaign, and stick to chocolate bunnies this Easter.

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Rabbits come in an array of breeds with different colors, sizes, shapes and coat types. The subtle differences between breeds will be of most interest to those who show their bunnies. The average owner would probably be interested mainly in size and coat type. Keep in mind that a pet store rabbit is not necessarily pure bred or at the very least may not meet the ideal breed standards. This in no way reflects on their quality as a pet, though! This guide is just meant to help potential owners sort through the sometimes confusing array of breeds. Rabbits vary in size from the smaller dwarf breeds (at under 2.5 lbs) to some of the giant breeds (sizes up to 16 pounds). Owners also need to be aware that the longer coated breeds need daily grooming.

 Pigs are very clever, and your pot bellied pig can be house trained with a little patience and lots of treats.

Here's How:

1. Initially confine your pig to a small area when not directly supervising him or her.
2. Take the pig outside frequently (every 2 hours), and especially on waking and after meals.
3. Come up with a command to use when you want your pig to urinate or defecate e.g. 'Do your stuff.'
4. When the pig urinates or defecates outside, use lots of praise and a give a bite of its favorite treat.
5. Establish a routine for eating and going outside, which will help your pig understand the idea of going outside to eliminate.

Most of us, at one time or another in our childhood, caught some kind of bug and put it in a jar with holes in the lid. Most people lose this fascination with insect and other invertebrates as they get older, and often go to great lengths to to keep them away. However, some people never lose that fascination and enjoy keeping insects, spiders, scorpion and millipedes as pets. These are certainly not cuddly pets, but they can still be entertaining and educational.
Before deciding on one of these, read Insects and Spiders 101 for an idea of the factors you should consider before choosing one of these pets. Some of these may be illegal where you live, so you need to check into your local laws as well.

Answer:
Your hermit crab will likely start to act a bit different and look a bit different just before molting. Always be prepared for molting as some hermit crabs may surprise you by molting when you least expect it. Keep a close eye out for the following signs and be prepared to support your molting hermit crab through this stressful time. Once you see these signs, you should consider isolating the hermit crab from the other crabs. Signs your Hermit Crab is Getting Ready to Molt

• Digging more than usual (careful: this can also be a sign of improper temperature or humidity, so check your conditions).
• Eating and drinking more than usual for a bit before the molt. In the last few days before starting a molt your crab may stop eating.

Here's How:

1. Get a small plastic tub for a container. Inexpensive clear containers with vented snap on lids are available at pet stores.
2. Place 1-2 inches of substrate (which mealworms will eat) in bottom. Use bran, oats or a mixture of the two.
3. Place 1/2 a potato on substrate or in a small dish (supplies moisture and food).
4. Get around 2 dozen mealworms from the pet store.
5. Place mealworms in container, which should be kept relatively warm.

Life Span: 2-3 years on average, though longer is possible (I recently heard of one who lived to 8 years, though this is exceptional!)
Size: body about 4 inches long, tail another 4 inches.
Appearance: fairly small rodents with long furry tails that have a little tuft of fur at the end. The wild type coloration is "agouti", where each hair is banded with gray, yellowish, and black, with off-white hair on the belly. However, through selective breeding, several lovely color variations are available.

The group of small mammals comprised of hamsters, gerbils, guinea pigs, mice and rats are commonly found at pets stores, and favorites as family pets. While they are all rodents (with the possible exception of the guinea pig, whose classification as a rodent is disputed in the scientific community), they have varied requirements for space and social interaction, and have differing qualities as pets. The following comparison can help you decide which of these rodents might be the right pet for you.
Hamsters           

Vulpes zerda is more commonly referred to as the fennec fox.
Fennec foxes are 2-3 lb. canines with ears as large as 6 inches in length from Africa. Fennecs can make great pets since they can be easily trained to use a litter box and are fed an accessible high-quality dog or cat food, such as the Mazuri Exotic Canine Diet.

Quick Facts

-Fennecs can be found purring like a cat when they are happy.
-They are very social animals and live in colonies in the wild of up to 10 other foxes.

In the past, ferrets have received a good deal of negative publicity. As with any pet, poor understanding of their needs and behavior and needs can lead to problems. However, we have to remember that the majority of ferret owners are responsible owners, and there are several common misconceptions about ferrets. Does a ferret make a good family pet? Well, it depends on the ferret and the family. With a commitment to proper care, ferrets make very good pets -- for anyone, including families. They do require exercise, training, attention (they like lots of attention!) and regular veterinary care, including vaccinations. In addition, homes must be thoroughly ferret-proofed. Ferrets are wonderful animals, but they are not low maintenance, inexpensive pets.

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Establishing a good working relationship with a veterinarian can be a challenge for any pet owner, but is a special challenge for the exotic pet owner. The exotic pet owner must find a vet who is willing to see their pet, knows something about their pet, and has the facilities, equipment and materials to treat their pet.
An interest in exotics doesn't necessarily equal proficiency in treating them. I say this from experience, as although I am fascinated with exotic pets, I have no special training in treating them medically. When I was practicing as a veterinarian, except for very routine care, I generally referred exotics to a specialist nearby. Thing may have changed a bit since I went to school, but during my training, exposure to exotics was still very imited even though I sought out extra exposure to exotic pets in my choice of clinical rotations.

The British Greyhound Racing Board is determined to prevent the sport from going to the dogs by taking steps to ensure that off-course bookmakers pay a proper price.

The BGRB is seeking to put right the underfunding it says it has endured during the last 30 years. Up to now greyhound racing has been denied a mandatory levy by government, despite the fact that horseracing, which is used in exactly the same way by bookmakers in betting shops, receives 1.3% of all betting turnover by law.

Examine, if you will, the following scenarios of crimes involving high school students in the small town of Jena, Louisiana:

A student asks to sit under a particular tree on campus, and is told he may sit wherever he likes. He does so, but the following day three nooses are found hanging from the tree. Despite the principal’s recommendation to expel the students involved in hanging the nooses, they receive a three day in-school suspension.

Later that fall, a student tried to enter a party, and was attacked and hit in the head with a beer bottle. The attacker was charged with battery and released on probation.

A Chihuahua dog rescue organization headed by an ex-daughter-in-law of actor Gregory Peck took into custody a pack of nearly 170 wild Chihuahua dogs in Lancaster, California, sparing them from death at a Los Angeles area animal shelter, Reuters News Service reported recently.

The feral dogs were taken into the animal shelter by county animal control officers last November in the desert town of Acton, north of Los Angeles.

The dogs allegedly were found in what a prosecutor described as "abominable" conditions.