Choosing an Exotic Pet - Care of Exotic Pets

Names and Terms

• Latin name: Cavia porcellus
• Also called cavies (singular is cavy).
• Females are called sows, males called boars, and babies called pups.
• Hairless varieties also available, sometimes called "skinny" pigs. 

 Appearance

• Approximately 10 inches long, and 2-3 pounds.
• Rounded stout body, no visible tail (a few tail vertebrae can be felt under the skin).
• Variety of breeds with different coat types and color patterns. The most commonly found breeds are the American (short smooth hair coat), Abyssinian (short coat with "swirls" called rosettes) and the Peruvian (long haired). A wide variety of colors are seen.

Before You Decide on Guinea Pigs

• Guinea pigs are social animals, and you should consider keeping a same sex pair so they have company. A pair of females is a good choice; a pair of males may be fine but may fight.

Cedar and pine shavings are commonly available pet bedding products. However, there has been much discussion ovger the safety of these beddings among exotic pet owners and advocate. Are these beddings really dangerous for the animals for which they are intended?
Cedar and pine became popular for pet bedding material because they are good at controlling odor and have some natural insecticidal properties (they kill or repel bugs, especially cedar). These softwood shavings smell nice due to the volatile compounds (e.g. aromatic hydrocarbons, phenols) that are given off. Unfortunately these compounds have been implicated as a potential health risk, especially with regards to respiratory problems (asthma, inflammation, allergic responses) and changes in the liver.
Many of the studies on wood toxicity have actually been conducted on humans, who are exposed to these woods and their by products in the wood product industry (such as those who work in lumber mills who are exposed to lots of wood dust), and these studies often compare the incidence of disease in workers in the wood product industry compared to other workers or the average population. Obviously, this is a much different type of exposure compared to our pets.
Studies of laboratory animals have shown fairly dramatic changes in liver enzymes on animals housed on cedar bedding. This in turn can effect the metabolism of drugs including anesthetics, but there is not much information on a direct link between these changes and disease or clinical symptoms. The changes in liver enzymes can be problematic for research animals, but the impact on pets hasn't really be studied, as far as I can tell.

Pot bellied pigs have individual personalities, but many piglets do not like to be touched much, or held. Usually, they grow to enjoy being near the people they bond with, and like to be touching them or sitting in their laps. However, piglets can be quite aloof or fearful at first, especially if they have not been well socialized by their breeder. Even well socialized pigs may take a while to learn to transfer trust to a new owner. When you bring a young pig home, you first need to gain the piglets trust in order to have it accept handling readily, then work on training basic behaviors (such as leash walking, house training) and being able to restrain the pig so necessary grooming and medical care can be done as needed. Although most pigs quickly outgrow being picked up, it is worthwhile to get them used to being picked up as they will be more willing to be handled and restrained if you are able to gain their trust enough to be able to pick them up.
A note about any sort of training with a pig: positive reinforcement is the key to success. They won't respond to force or punishment very well at all. To a pig, the most obvious kind of positive reinforcement is food, remembering that most pigs will be happy to work for small tidbits such as raisins, small pieces of apple or other fruit, or even pieces of their regular ration. When you are trying to tame a stubborn piglet, you may even want to hand feed all their food, since the quickest way to a pig's heart is through his stomach. However, obesity is a common problem, so keep treat foods to a minimum and make sure you are not overfeeding your pig by feeding full meals and supplementing with extra food for training.
Bonding With a New Piglet
When you bring your new pig home, he (or she) will probably be very nervous and scared, since he has left everything familiar behind and has to adjust to all new people and surroundings. Be patient at first. You will want to keep him or her in a small confined area until he is more comfortable. Let the pig explore a bit and get comfortable with his new surroundings, and once he doesn't seem apprehensive, try to get him to approach you by tempting him with food. Sit on the floor with the pig, and offer a bit of food (for piglets, it is probably best to just use their regular food for most of the training - small bits of vegetable or fruit could be used for special treats). You may just need to put the food on the floor in front of you at first, and gradually work up to the piglet taking the food from you. Do this repeatedly over the course of the first few days at home and have everyone in the family have a turn so that the piglet can bond with all the family members.
Once your piglet is comfortable with being near you and taking food from your hand, you can reach out and try to scratch your piglet gently under the chin or along the sides. Move slowly, and speak calmly and gently to your pig. Remember to give treats as you do this, and the piglet will eventually realize this is a pleasant experience. Move at a pace that your piglet is comfortable with, though. If he resists being scratched or petted, back off a bit until he is more accepting.
There is a fairly fine line between spending enough time with your piglet and spending too much time, though. While you want to take the time to get to know your pig and have him or her trust you, you also want to make sure you do not lavish too much attention on your baby, or he will come to expect attention all the time. This is also true of using food as a training tool - spend time with your pig without giving treats as well, or he will think of you as a food dispenser and may start to expect or demand food contstantly. Keep the bonding and training sessions short and regular, with breaks to give the pig time to rest and develop the ability to entertain himself a bit too.

Picking up a Piglet
Generally, pigs do not like to be held or picked up. When a pig feels threatened, it will squeal, loudly. Usually very loudly. Obviously, when you are trying to pick up a baby pig you want to cuddle you are not a threat, but you have to remember that squealing is a natural response to something the piglet doesn't like. As the piglet bonds with you, it will trust that you are not going to hurt him or her, and you will likely be able to teach him or her not to struggle and squeal when handled. While pigs usually outgrow being picked up quite quickly, being able to pick up your piglet will make it easier to move your piglet around, which is especially handy during the house training process.
Once your pig is used to being handled and scratched, try to entice him or her to sit in your lap. If your piglet has a favorite blanket, put it in your lap to encourage the piglet to lay in your lap. Once your pig will climb into your lap, gradually work from petting his body to gently wrapping your arms around him. Then start to apply gentle pressure with your arms. You'll want to cradle your piglet gently, but firmly, under his neck/chest just ahead of his front legs and under his rump, wrapping your arms around the side of his body that is away from yours. Hold him against your body, so he feels secure. Continue to pet him and talk gently to him, and give him treats (having a helper to feed treats while you try to cradle him works well). Once he is okay with being cradled, try and lift him a bit. If he squeals or screams for more than a few seconds, back off and work on just holding him more and work back toward picking him up. This is where things get a bit tricky and it helps to really know your pig. You do not want to let him keep screaming as it is a signal that he is very stressed. On the other hand, you do not want to put him down the second he starts to squeal, since you then reward him for squealing when picked up and therefore inadvertently teach him that if he squeals he gets put down. As you get to know your pig, you can judge better when your pig is just protesting a bit compared to when he or she is truly stressed. Teaching a piglet to be picked up can be difficult, since it requires teaching something they do not like to do. Be patient and make it a gradual process, and you and your piglet will be happier as a result.

Pot bellied pigs generally have voracious appetites and will eat nearly anything that you offer them. Unfortunately they are also very prone to obesity which can lead to foot and joint problems as well as other health problems. In addition to the health implications they can also become very persistent and pesky beggars and can even learn to open the refrigerator in their search for tasty treats. Feeding the proper diet, limiting treats and developing a feeding routine can help prevent problems.
Pot bellied pigs need a good quality diet that is high in fiber and low in calories. Ideally, a food formulated specifically for pot bellied pigs or mini pigs should be fed, and these can now be found at some feed stores and pet stores. If your local store doesn't carry these diets they may be able to order them in for you, or you could also check to see if your veterinarian can order them. Here are some examples of pot bellied pig diets:

• Mazuri (whose parent company is Purina) - choose Mini Pig from the menu at the right of the screen
• Ross Mill Farms - you can buy online from their online Pig Store
• Heartland Pet Pig Products - carries a full line of pet pig diets available online through HappyPigs.com

If you feed a commercial food meant for farmed pigs make sure you choose a maintenance ration - especially avoid the grower and finisher type foods which are meant for optimum growth and are too rich for pot bellied pigs. The
Young piglets can be fed a commercial pig starter diet, but only up to about 2-3 months of age.
As a rule, in non-breeding adults feed about 1/2 cup of maintenance food per 25 pounds of the pig's weight (so a 75 pound pig would get 1 1/2 cups of food). The total amount should be divided into 2 meals a day. However, this amount is a guideline and should be adjusted based on the pig's body condition. If the pig is developing rolls of fat around the face and you have a hard time feeling the hip bones, the pig is becoming obese and should be fed less. Conversely, if the pig feels skinny you should feed more. Piglets up to 6 weeks of age can be fed starter ration free choice (as much as they want) but from 6 weeks to 3 months gradually limit the starter food down to about 1 to 1 1/2 cups per day. Nearing 3 months, make the gradual change to the adult diet.
In addition to the formulated diet, you can feed a good variety of fresh vegetables to make up about 25% of the pig's diet. Foods such as celery, cucumbers, peppers, carrots, potatoes and some greens are good choices (but try to limit the starchy vegetables like potatoes). Some fruits can be feed as well but only in moderation due to the high sugar content. Most pigs love treats like apples, grapes and raisins, but these are good to reserve as treats to be used in training.
Pigs should also be allowed opportunity to root in soil and graze on grass (not treated with chemicals or fertilizer). Pigs are susceptible to selenium deficiency but in most areas if they are allowed to graze and root in the soil they will get enough. If you live in an area with soil deficient in selenium you may need a mineral supplement. Check with your veterinarian for advice on this.
Extra fiber can be provided by feeding hay (e.g. alfalfa), and some experts recommend adding bran to the diet. In summary:

• feed a diet specifically made for pot bellied pigs if possible
• do not overfeed - never feed as much as they will eat since pigs have voracious appetites
• do not feed dog or cat food (much too high in protein)
• avoid fatty foods, particularly animal fats
• absolutely avoid chocolate or salty snacks
• ensure plenty of fresh water is always available
• do not give into begging or your pig is likely to become a pest and beg constantly
• do not feed directly from the fridge or your pig may quickly become an expert at opening the fridge

Introduction

• Live 6-8 years on average (sometimes up to 11 or 12)
• Females are called jills, and males are hobs. Baby ferrets are called kits. In North America, spayed females are sometimes called sprites and neutered males called gibs. A group of ferrets is a "business of ferrets."
• Males tend to be larger than females in length and weight. Females are 13-14 inches long and weigh anywhere from 0.75 to 2.5 lbs, whereas males are on average 15-16 inches long and weigh 2-3.5 lbs if neutered and are even larger (4 or more lbs) if not neutered.
• Most ferrets obtained in North America are spayed or neutered and descented at a very young age before being sold.
• Ferrets sleep a large part of the day, commonly around 18 hours. They naturally tend to be active at dawn and dusk, but usually adapt their sleeping and active times to the fit the schedules of their owners.
• Ferrets are very playful, and are very entertaining to watch.
• Ferrets have relatively poor eyesight but a keen sense of smell and hearing.

Are Ferrets Domestic Animals?
There are often misconceptions and debate about whether ferrets are domesticated animals, and the short answer is yes, they are domesticated. They have been domesticated for probably 2000 years or more, and were brought to America as pets as long as 300 years ago. Nevertheless, in many places they are still not recognized as a domestic animal for the purposes of laws pertaining to animals kept in captivity. The domestic ferret is sometimes also confused with its wild cousin, the black footed ferret.
What about the Odor?
Ferrets have an undeserved reputation of being smelly. It is true that they have a distinctly musky odor about them, but it is neither offensive nor overpowering. This musky odor comes from their skin glands and is present whether the ferret is descented or not. While occasional baths are recommended, frequent bathing will not reduce the scent, and will likely make it worse as the skin will get too dry and the skin glands will produce more oils in an effort to combat the dryness.
As mentioned above ferrets are usually descented in North America, which involved removal of the scent glands. They do have scent glands similar to skunk scent glands, and they will release (not spray) the contents if threatened. However, ferret scent gland secretions are milder than that of skunks and the smell dissipates quickly and washes away easily. The routine removal of scent glands, which is most commonly done in North America, is now being questioned since the musky odor of ferrets is not due to the scent glands and discharge of their scent glands is not a big problem.
Did you Know?

• The name ferret is derived from the latin furonem, which means "thief." Ferret owners can attest that this is a well deserved name, as they will happily steal anything they can get their paws on and hide it in their house.
• Ferrets come from the same family ("Mustelidae") as badgers, wolverines, otters, mink, weasels, black footed ferrets and polecats.
• The distant ancestry of the domestic ferret is somewhat of a mystery, although they are very closely related to the European polecat.
• The scientific name for ferrets is a somewhat controversial area - Mustela putorius furo is traditionally used, although recent scientific evidence has suggested they should have a name of their own, Mustela furo.
• Ferret owners have a variety of fun nicknames for ferrets: ferts, fuzzies, carpet sharks, furballs, and more! 

While ferrets are not for everyone, they can make great pets for the right owner. They are affectionate and bond to their owners, and there are few pets as playful as ferrets (yet they are quiet for a large portion of the day). They seem to have garnered a negative image in some places, which is largely undeserved. Here's my list of reasons ferrets make good pets!
1. Ferrets are cute!
With mischevious eyes and sweet faces, ferrets are undeniably adorable. See the Ferret Photo Gallery for proof!
2. Ferrets are very playful and curious.
They will entertain you endlessly with their antics. They will happily play with toys, and watching ferrets play for the sheer joy of it is guaranteed to lift your mood. Remember, it is known that owning pets has real health benefits and the joy and affection they bring is the main reason.
3. Ferrets are sociable, friendly and affectionate.
It if often recommended (although not essential) to have more than one. Having two or more ferrets increases the fun factor for the owner and the ferrets as they will interact and play together, sometimes with wild abandon. And despite having other ferrets to socialize with, they will still crave attention from their owners.
4. Ferrets are intelligent.
Some owners are amazed at how adept ferrets become at solving problems - and training their owners. Ferrets are very determined and will work at figuring something out with surprising persistence.
5. Ferrets are quiet.
While they can and do vocalize, for the most part they are very quiet. For example, probably the only time a ferret will make a noise loud enough for someone in the next apartment to notice is if the ferret is hurt or very frightened. They also sleep away a large portion of the day.
6. Ferrets are small.
Therefore, ferrets don't need a huge cage. Of course, the bigger the better, and ideal ferret cages are tall with muliple levels, so they still don't take up too much room. They do need time out of the cage daily for playtime and exercise, no matter what size cage you give them.
7. Ferrets are easy to feed.
This is especially true now that a variety of good quality ferret foods have become more widely available.
8. Ferrets can be litter trained.
Perhaps not to the same extent as cats, in that there are bound to be a few accidents. However, most can be fairly reliably trained to use a litter box in and out of their cages - a big plus when you have them out for exercise for a couple of hours a day!
9. Ferrets are easy to exercise.
They can get all the exercise they need tearing around your (ferret-proofed) home! Of course, if you want you could take them for walks. With a ferret sized harness and a little training, you can take them out for a stroll. There are few things that will start a conversation with strangers faster than walking your ferret in the park!
10. Ferret have distinct personalities.
Every ferret is unique and has it's own personality. Some are independent, and some are very cuddly, but each is an individual and treat to get to know!

he group of small mammals comprised of hamsters, gerbils, guinea pigs, mice and rats are commonly found at pets stores, and favorites as family pets. While they are all rodents (with the possible exception of the guinea pig, whose classification as a rodent is disputed in the scientific community), they have varied requirements for space and social interaction, and have differing qualities as pets. The following comparison can help you decide which of these rodents might be the right pet for you.

Hamsters
Syrian or golden hamsters live on average about 2-3 years. Adults are about 6 inches in length. They are solitary animals that should be kept one to a cage. A basic minimum cage size is 12 x 18 inches (and 12 inches tall), but since hamsters are quite active, the bigger the better (and those cute modular plastic hamster cages are often too small for hamsters). Syrian hamsters that are handled from a young age usually have an agreeable temperament, but if not handled much they can be defensive and can deliver a painful bite (they are also nocturnal and can be difficult to wake or act grumpy if woken during the day). Overall hamsters are widely available and make good pets, with the advantage that they can be kept single. Also, several species of dwarf hamster are becoming more widely available. These are smaller than Syrian hamsters and are often more social, at least with others of their species. Some have a reputation as biters, although that depends a bit on the species and how much they are handled.
Care of Hamsters
Gerbils
Gerbils live an average of 2-3 years (although up to 5 years has been reported). They have a body length of about 4 inches, with a furry tail that is almost as long as the body (never pick a gerbil up by that tail, though!). Gerbils are very active and social so are happier as a pair or group (get all males or all females to prevent prolific breeding). Introducing adults is difficult, though, so it is best to acquire a pair (or more) that are littermates or quite young. A recommended minimum cage size for a pair or small group of gerbils is 12 by 24 inches, with a height of 12 inches, although more space would be better. With regular handling, gerbils can become quite tame, and are interesting to watch as they play and interact with their cage-mates.
Care of Gerbils
Mice
Fancy mice live 1-3 years on average, and are quite easy to keep. They are the smallest of this group with bodies that are only about 3 inches long, with a long hairless tail. They are also social and females do well in pairs or small groups (males tend to fight if kept with other males). They need a relatively small cage, minimum 12 by 18 inches (and 12 inches tall), although a larger cage is recommended if you have more than a pair. Mice can become quite tame if handled regularly but are small, fast and can be skittish so are not the best candidates for human interaction. However, they are low maintenance and quite active and playful, so they are entertaining to watch.
Care of Mice
Rats
Rats live an average of 2-4 years, and make nice pets. They are very social, and it is best to keep a same sex pair (male or female). Since they are larger, with a body length of about 8 inches (and a hairless tail about the same), they are a easy to handle. With regular handling they become very tame and enjoy human companionship, and they rarely bite. They need time outside of the cage for social interaction and exercise, and can even be taught simple tricks (they have even been compared to dogs in their ability to bond and interact with people). They do need a large cage: a tall cage with at least 24 inches by 36 inches of floor space is recommended. Due to their social nature they need more time and attention than many of the other small rodents, but make rewarding pets.

Guinea Pigs
Guinea pigs are fairly long lived, with an average lifespan of 5-7 years (up to 10 reported). At an adult size of about 10 inches long and 2-3 pounds, they are also the largest of the commonly found pet rodents. Their size and gentle temperament have made guinea pigs popular pets, especially for families. They rarely bite, even when stressed. They are social so do best kept in pairs (same sex), and they need a larger cage than is typically found in the guinea pig section at the pet store. A suggested minimum is 4 square feet of floor space for a pair - and this is only if daily exercise outside of the cage is available. Larger cages can be easily created with household materials to create a wonderful habitat since guinea pigs are not escape artists like the other rodents mentioned here. They have slightly more demanding diets, needing a fresh supply of hay and veggies as well as adequate amounts of vitamin C. While they need more space and attention than some other rodent pets, they make rewarding pets and enjoy a longer expected life span.

Due to the popular association of rabbits and Easter, and the proliferation of bunnies at pet stores around Easter, it can be tempting to bring home a live rabbit for Easter. But unless you have done your research and are certain a pet rabbit will be a good fit for your household, this can be a bad idea.

Many Easter Bunnies End up at Shelters After Easter

Owners who didn't know what to expect from a pet bunny often end up surrendering them to shelters after Easter once the novelty wears off and the amount of work required to properly care for pet rabbits becomes apparent. Rabbits can be wonderful companions -- for owners who know what they are getting into. Rabbits are fun and entertaining and often form very close bonds with their owners. Here are some thing to consider before deciding if a rabbit is right for you:

• Being social, rabbits need a great deal of interaction with their owners and/or other rabbits to be happy. Daily playtime and exercise outside of their case are necessary.
• They are not low maintenance - it takes a good deal of work to properly care for a rabbit.
• Rabbit pellets alone are not a sufficient diet -- they need lots of roughage in the form of good quality hay and a variety of fresh vegetables.
• They do need to chew, so lots of safe chew toys should be provided, and any spaces where the rabbit is allowed to run must be carefully rabbit-proofed.
• They need a relatively large cage. They are also better off indoors, where they can be more social with their family and also are also safe from predators (even in the city) and extreme weather.
• While they are generally quiet pets, rabbits are not a good match for active young children who may not be careful enough when picking them up or playing around them.
• Rabbits like to be near their people, but they often would rather not be held (which can be disappointing, especially for kids)
• They require some veterinary care, which can be expensive. They should be spayed or neutered (by a vet experienced with surgery on rabbits) and they may require vaccinations depending on where you live (e.g. in the U.K.; see Rabbit Vaccinations from RabbitRehome.org.uk for more on vaccines).
• Rabbit urine can have a strong odor so expect to change their litter box frequently (rabbits usually take quite well to litter box training though, spaying and neutering should help reduce the odor).

If You Are Sure a Rabbit is Right for You

Of course, some potential owners will have done their research and are ready to make the commitment to a pet rabbit. If this is true for you, please consider adopting from a shelter or rescue. There are many pet rabbits out there who need a second chance at finding a forever home, Easter or not. Many animal shelters regularly receive rabbits so you can often find them at your local shelter or humane society. Alternatively, check for a local chapter of the House Rabbit Society

Make Mine Chocolate

If you are not absolutely certain a rabbit is the right pet for you, it's best follow the advice of the "Make Mine Chocolate!" campaign, and stick to chocolate bunnies this Easter.