Choosing an Exotic Pet - Care of Exotic Pets

Guinea pigs don't talk, but that doesn't mean they don't communicate. Though we may not understand all the noises and actions guinea pigs make, there are some things they do that seem to have a fairly clear meaning and that help with understanding guinea pigs.
Vocalizations
Guinea pigs make a variety of noises, some of which most guinea pig owners will recognize. Contented guinea pigs just going about their day often make a variety of squeaks, chortles, and quiet grunts. As well, squeaks and chortles seem to accompany casual guinea pig interactions. Along with these frequent squeaks and chortles, there are a variety of other quite distinctive noises you might hear from your guinea pig:

• Wheeking: this is a distinctive (and common) vocalization, and it most often is used to communicate anticipation or excitement, particularly about being fed. It sounds like a long, loud squeal or whistle. Sometimes wheeking may simply serve as a call for attention. Many guinea pigs will make a very loud wheeking noise when their owners open the fridge or get out the food container, in anticipation of getting some tasty treats!

- This breed is also known as the English Cavy. The coat is smooth and short and lies flat to the body. This is the most popular and commonly seen breed.

The Satin American is also recognized by the American Cavy Breeders Association (ACBA). Satin refers to the sheen of the coat; the satin breeds have very shiny, sleek coats.

American Guinea Pig Photo Courtesy of Kathy

- The Abyssinian has a very distinctive appearance. The coat is made up of multiple swirls of hair referred to as rosettes. Their hair is quite dense and coarse, and it radiates in circles from multiple points on the body to make up a series of whirls and ridges. For show purposes, Abyssinian must have a minimum of 8 rosettes, in a symmetrical pattern. These guinea pigs always look somewhat dishevelled.
The Satin Abyssinian is also recognized by the ACBA; again the satin simply means the coat has a deep shine.
The above Abyssinian photo is courtesy of Odd Fellows Caviary.

There are actually two varieties of hairless guinea pigs. The Skinny pig, which does actually have a bit of hair, and the Baldwin guinea pig. While some people find their unique appearance unappealing, others find them quite irresistible.
There is some controversy about the introduction of these guinea pigs to the pet industry. They were originally bred for laboratory research, and concerns about their immune system function and overall hardiness have been raised, though this appears to depend more upon their line and breeding rather than the fact that they are hairless. Through careful breeding, it is thought to be possible to produce hairless guinea pigs that are hardier than their ancestors (e.g. see Skinny Pig Origins by SphynxnCavies Caviary). As far as I can tell, there are/have been some lab strains of hairless guinea pigs with reduced immune function, it seems that it shouldn't be assumed that hairless strains should be any less hardy than their hairy counterparts.

Their care is much like that of other guinea pigs. However, lacking a coat they are a bit more sensitive to temperature extremes and must be protected from drafts as well as direct sunlight. They also tend to eat more to maintain their metabolism and body heat (an excellent quality diet is a necessity, but should be provided to all guinea pigs, hairless or not).

Size
Guinea pigs, being social creatures, do best kept in groups of two or more, but most readily available commercial cages are not large enough to house a pair of pigs. The "old" guideline of 2 square feet per guinea pig is considered out-of-date and cramped by many owners. Cavycages.com recommends 7.5 square feet for a single guinea pig and 10.5 feet for a pair. Even at that, if you can provide a bigger cage, your guinea pigs will benefit from the extra space. In many cases, a home made cage provides ample space inexpensively and you can make quite creative cages easily. These are usually a better choice than a cramped commercial guinea pig cage (more on home made cage ideas below).

Cage Style
Cages with wire floors or wire ramps must be avoided, but otherwise guinea pigs are not too demanding in what sort of cage they need. Cages with ramps and low plastic shelves or ledges provide some added interest for the guinea pig, but be careful they do not take away needed floor space for running laps. The spacing between the bars can be up to one inch for adults. Some owners have come up with very creative solutions to the problem of providing large enough housing. The good thing about guinea pigs is that they are fairly large and not all that big on climbing or chewing, and are not likely to climb or jump over a wall that is reasonable height (18 inches should contain most pigs). Several examples of clever cage solutions can be found on on the sites listed on "Top Sites with Home Made Guinea Pig Cage Ideas." The photos illustrate how a little creativity can go a long way to providing great guinea pig enclosures, especially for groups of guinea pigs if you have enough room. The "Cubes and Coroplast" style of cage has become very popular. Stay away from most of the cages marketed for guinea pigs as they are terribly small. There are really only a few commercial cages that approach a good cage size for guinea pigs; see "Top Guinea Pig Cages" for a selection of larger cages you can purchase online.

Vitamin C
Vitamin C is of utmost importance to guinea pigs, as they are unable to manufacture their own (much like humans). Without enough vitamin C in their diets, guinea pigs can become very ill with scurvy. The amount of vitamin C required varies somewhat depending on the reference source used, but most guinea pigs probably need about 10-30 mg/day. Pregnant, nursing, young and ill guinea pigs need more.

• If you feed a good selection of vegetables high in vitamin C along with a good, fresh guinea pig pellet, you can probably meet the vitamin C needs of the average guinea pig.
• Many guinea pig pellets have vitamin C added but unfortunately vitamin C is quite unstable and will degrade over time. Keeping the pellets in a cool dark place helps preserve the vitamin C. You can also get pellets with a stabilized form of vitamin C.
• The best way to supplement with additional vitamin C is to use vitamin C tablets. You can buy vitamin C tablets specifically for guinea pigs (e.g. Oxbow's GTN-50C), or buy human chewable 100 mg tablets (note: make sure you are getting just vitamin C rather than a multivitamin formula). A quarter of a 100 mg tablet daily is a recommended dose for most adult guinea pigs. The guinea pig tablets are 50 mg, but since vitamin C is a water soluble vitamin, small excesses over that daily requirement are easily excreted. Many guinea pigs will take the tablets like a treat and eat them, or they can be crushed and sprinkled on vegetables or pellets.

Answer: The answer to both questions is yes: hedgehogs are pretty spiky, but they can be held, especially once they are tame. When a hedgehog is calm, the quills are in a relaxed position, and the hedgehog and be held without worrying about he sharp quills. The quills tend to lay down along the back and sides, all pointing towards the back, so as long as you don't push against the sharp tips of the quills they pose no problems (don't pet a hedgehog the wrong way!).
A scared or angry hedgehog is another story, since the quills are raised and tend to point in all directions; trying to handle a hedgehog in this defensive posture is sure to be a prickly experience.
How much a hedgehog enjoys being held or cuddled is a completely different question, and depends personality of the individual hedgehog. Some hedgehogs do seem to like to snuggle up to their human companions, while others might be more shy or simply prefer exploring and moving about than cuddling. My hedgehog was tolerant of being held but preferred snuffling around and exploring (or finding a quiet corner of the couch for a nap) over being held. It is hard to predict the personality of an individual, though it is safe to say that with patience, almost any hedgehog can be held.

When choosing a hedgehog, there are a few things you can look for to increase your chances of bringing home a healthy hedgehog. Unfortunately, the steps here can't rule out all health problems, and health problems could develop later, but avoiding hedgehogs with some common signs of poor health is still a wise idea. Here are some things you can check quickly in a hedgehog you are considering adopting.

Here's How:

1. Learn all you can about caring for hedgehogs before you go shopping. Not only will this prepare you to be a good owner, you will be able to evaluate whether the hedgehogs you are looking at have been cared for properly. Pay close attention to what they are fed and how they are housed.
2. It can be hard to really look at hedgehogs, as they are nocturnal and tend to roll up and act defensive around new people. But usually, even if they need to be woken up (which might make them snuffle and roll up a bit at first, but usually they settle down), hedgehogs will become active for a short time. Watch the hedgehogs move around. They should be bright and curious, and not overly lethargic and sleepy. They should have a smooth gait, free of limping or wobbles.

Pokey - African Pygmy Hedgehog Photo © Julie

The Basics of Hedgehogs

• The hedgehogs commonly kept as pets in North America appear to by a mix of species, originally native to Africa. The term "African Pygmy Hedgehog" is a descriptive term (coined by breeders), rather than a true species name.
• They are considered primarily insectivores (insects make up the largest part of their natural diet).
• Their backs are covered with rows of short prickly spines and their bellies are covered with soft fur. When threatened, they roll in to a tight ball with just a mass of spines poking out. When relaxed, the spines lay almost flat.
• Thanks to selective breeding, hedgehogs are now available in a huge array of color variations.
• They are quite compact, reaching a size of around 5-8 inches in length.
• Estimates of expected life span vary widely, anywhere from 3-8 years, although 4-6 years is probably most typical.
• Illegal in some areas.
• Fairly low maintenance pets, and while they don't mind handling once used to it they don't really seem to "crave" human interaction.

Choosing a Hedgehog

• It is best to locate a reputable breeder who breeds for good temperament and makes sure young hedgehogs are handled regularly.
• Getting a young hedgehog (6-8 weeks) is the best way to make sure your hedgehog will get used to being handled.
• If possible, try to pick up the hedgehog to gauge its reaction - try to choose one that will allow itself to be picked up and maybe even turned on its back without rolling into a tight ball and staying there.

There is some debate on ideal housing for pet hedgehogs, but for any hedgehog cage, the most important considerations are size, safety, ventilation, and ease of cleaning. There are pros and cons for different types of cages, and it is important to find a cage that meets the unique requirements of hedgehogs as well as fitting your budget and preferences.

Size
Hedgehogs in the wild usually cover a lot of ground in their search for food. Pet hedgehogs need lots of room to move about too. Two square feet (e.g. 1 foot by 2 feet) is sometime quoted as the minimum floor space for a hedgehog, but this should be considered an absolute bare minimum, and only used if you have a wheel and give your hedgehog ample time to roam around outside the cage for exercise. It would be much better to aim for a minimum of about four square feet (e.g. 2 feet by 2 feet).

Safety
A hedgehog cage needs to have a solid floor, so avoid any cages with wire or wire mesh flooring (hedgehogs may catch and injure their legs or feet on wire floors). Cages should not have any sharp edges or spaces in which a hedgehog could get his or her head stuck. The cage must also be secure to prevent escapes.

Ventilation
Good ventilation is necessary to keep humidity levels down and to prevent ammonia (from urine) and odor from building up in the cage. Wire cages offer the best ventilation.

Ease of Cleaning
This one is fairly self-explanaorty, but do not underestimate its importance. Your hedgehog's cage will need frequent cleaning, and a large, heavy or awkward cage will make this chore very unpleasant.

Wire Cages
Many owners use wire cages since they are quite readily available and these have the the advantage of good ventilation. In addition, they are usually pretty lightweight and easy to clean. However, few are made specifically for hedgehogs so you need to be very particular when choosing a cage. Avoid any cages with wire flooring (or if absolutely necessary, cover the wire with wood, plastic, or a Vellux blanket cut to fit securely). Additionally, cages large enough for hedgehogs might have wire spacing that is too large for safely housing hedgehogs (look for ferret or rabbit cages with spacing of 1 inch or less). There are a couple of manufacturers producing wire cages particularly for hedgehogs: Martin's Cages (choose from the larger ones - the Hedgehog Home is very small) and Hedgehogs by Vicki. Some people recommend multilevel ferret cages, but the height of these cages and the platforms make me nervous about falls (from the platforms or from climbing the sides of the cages).

Aquariums
Aquariums are okay, but you need a large aquarium (i.e. 30 gallon is a good minimum) and a wire mesh top. The major disadvantages are the lack of ventilation, and aquariums are heavy and awkward to clean.

Plastic Containers
Many owners have gotten quite creative with creating cages out of plastic storage bins. With some slight modifications, you can make a large cage for little money out of clear plastic storage containers (solid color containers would be quite dark for a hedgehog). The biggest downside is again ventilation. Holes can be made in the sides and lid with a soldering iron or drill, but it is difficult to provide enough holes to provide great ventilation. If you get a deep enough container and don't have anything (including water bottles) around the walls that the hedgehog can use for climbing, you may be able to get away with having no lid. Alternatively, you can fashion a lid out of hardware wire mesh or screen material, either on its own, or attached to a large opening cut in the lid of the storage container. The Michigan Hedgehog Owners Group site has an ingenious idea for a two-container home with instructions. Hedgehog Valley suggests cutting panels in the sides of the container and fixing wire mesh or plastic canvas over the openings to aid ventilation in this type of home. With creativity, these homes can work quite well.

Other Options
I have seen other ideas for cages, such as wading pools (solid plastic with high sides) and home-made wooden cages. As long as a cage is large enough, escape proof and safe, ventilated and easy to clean, then your imagination is the limit.